felicita's pesto recipe

I'm home in San Francisco and in the middle of a fall harvest cooking class in my kitchen and still I can't get the Cinque Terre out of my head. I'm supposed to be thinking clove zabaglione, roasted fall vegetables, braised beef in Cabernet and poached pears but I keep flashing back to basil, pine nuts and fruity Ligurian olive oil.

I remember hearing years ago that in Liguria, where pesto reigns supreme, they never pick basil over 6-inches tall. After being there, I now know that to be true but there's a whole lot more to the story.

The first class I had with my students in the Cinque Terre, I invited Felicita, the owner of the albergo, to come and show us how she makes pesto. After all her family has been in the Cinque Terre for generations, she'd have to be pretty good at it.

We all think we know how to make pesto. Throw all the ingredients into the food processor and pulse until you have a bright green puree. Nope, not here, think again!

You can't start with just any basil. It has to be Genovese basil and it's true, it can't be taller than 6-inches. The leaves have to be small and really tender. Pick the leaves from the stem meticulously making sure you don't get any stem whatsoever. Wash the basil and place it on towels to dry. There can't be any water on the basil at all.

Now you need a mortar and pestle. Felicita's mortar was passed to her from her mother who got it from her mother. She thinks it's about 100 years old.

What about the pestle? It has to be made of beech wood, she told us. (The next day after our lesson, I got so excited when I saw a man selling beech wood pestles in the market. I bought one but had to draw the line when it came to the 25 pound mortar! I've carried a lot of things home in my suitcase but not this time.)

You place the basil (two big handfuls for two people or about 80 leaves) in the mortar and with the pestle you grind the basil until there's shinny green liquid at the bottom mortar and the basil is pulverized. Next you add a clove of garlic and continue with the pestle until the garlic is also pulverized. Add about 2 tablespoons of Italian pine nuts (Felicita picks them herself from her trees) and mash them until the mixture is a paste.

She said some people like to add a combination of Pecorino and Parmigiano but it's all personal preference. She prefers a good handful of Parmigiano and again she grinds the mixture to make a paste. And finally don't forget a good splash of Liguriuan olive oil and mash until you have a creamy consistency.

I slathered as much as I could on a tiny wedge of bread. How was it? It had to be the sweetest, most delicate, bright emerald green pesto I've ever tasted. I thought about the pesto we make with strong, bitter, tough basil... How did I feel after that lesson with Felicita? Like I couldn't make pesto again anywhere outside Liguria.

How often does Felicita eat pesto? "At least 3 to 4 times a week!" she said.

I can see why!

cinque terre

I've been to the Cinque Terre twice before. I've hiked the trails from one fishing village to another, eaten pesto, fritto misto and tasted the white wine made here in Liguria. The other times I visited I remember thinking that I just didn't get what all the hype was about. It was supposed to be so romantic,- 5 fishing villages along the Mediterranean connected by a train, the Via d'Amore or ferry. But what I recall during those two visits was bumping into people on the trails, visiting tourist-ridden fishing villages, experiencing sweltering heat and suffering mediocre food. I knew there had to be more because every time someone talked about their trip to the Cinque Terre, they had a twinkle in their eye.

Why was it different for me this time? Why did the pesto taste so sweet? Why didn't I know about the Albarola, Bosco and Vermentino grapes and how good they tasted with the crispy, tender fritto misto? The hotel was far from luxurious so it couldn't be that. Was it the warmth that Felicita and Angelo Pasini, the owners of Albergo Pasquale, extended making me feel like their hotel was my home? Were the villages more quaint? Had the Cinque Terre changed or had I?

I arrived at the Albergo in the heart of Monterosso just two weeks ago, the first day of my weeklong cooking class. As soon as I walked in the door, I knew I'd made the right decision. I immediately revisited the kitchen I'd seen a year ago on a scouting trip and yes, it was well equipped and had enough space for my 12 students. I then went upstairs to my room and it was very basic at best, but when I opened the shutters, the Mediterranean Sea was right there before me.

In the first few minutes I knew that for me it was a magical place I couldn't wait to explore. And I had a whole week to do it! But would my students get it? I just had to hope. And I'd be finding out soon because I had just minutes until they'd arrive.

something about stella

When I was about ten years old, Stella Ginsberg's age, I wanted to make oatmeal cookies all by myself. I remember measuring out everything, the flour, oatmeal, butter, baking powder and salt. I even cracked the egg. I called my Mom who was in the other room, "Mom, we ran out of baking soda." "That's funny" she said, "I just bought box the other day."

As I scooped the last of the cookies onto a baking sheet, I got all excited. I popped them into the oven, switched on the oven light and grabbed a chair to sit in front of the oven and watch my cookies bake. For the next ten minutes, I watched as the cookies spread out covering the entire baking sheet, over the sides and onto the floor of the oven. Horrified I called my mother. We realized I'd added 1 cup of baking soda instead of 1 teaspoon.

As we scraped the cookies off the baking sheet and into the trash, my mother broke off a piece and tasted it. "They're still good!" she said, not ever wanting to hurt my feelings.

Last week when I was in LA, I visited my friend, Stella. I've known her Mom for several years. and since Stella loves everything food, she and I have become cooking buddies.

Last week she called me for an informational interview for a biography she was writing for her 5th grade class. This gave me an idea, I'll interview her! After all, she's a very interesting, smart, funny, inquisitive kid. And I love her dimples! (Seriously, if I had a daughter, I'd want her to be just like Stella!)

So how did Stella get interested in cooking? Her Mom loves to cook, so did her grandmother and great grandmother. What does cooking and food mean to her? She said, "That's simple, love!" What's her worst cooking disaster? Every year, Stella, her brother and her Dad make chocolate cupcakes for their Mom's birthday which happens to fall near Mother's Day. One year, by mistake, Stella put unsweetened cocoa in the cupcakes instead of sweetened cocoa powder. Stella and Jack tried them and couldn't even eat one they were so bitter. When their Mom tasted them, she loved them.

Stella's Mom reminds me of my Mom. Check out Stella's blog, it's pretty cool, just like her! And maybe she'll even share her recipe for chocolate cupcakes?!

rome and cinqueterre

My Dad always called me his "wandering gypsy!" I'm beginning to think he was right!

I leave for Rome this morning. I'll be in Rome for the weekend with my friend, Jill. Tuesday we head to the Italian Riviera and the Cinque Terre for my weeklong cooking course with twelve students. Should be amazing this time of year. I have good walking shoes, lots of aprons and my knives.

If you want to follow me, I'll be doing lots of tweets on twitter, so check it out! My address @joanneweir1

fall salad recipe

Love fall, love being home in San Francisco and love cooking again! Last night, I had John and Derek for dinner. I was dying for sauerkraut with braised pork and sausages but what should I serve for a first course...

There is an incredibly short window for this salad! This is the time when figs are just going out of season and Fuju persimmons and pomegranates are just coming to market. Perfect! I can make one of my favorite salads.

What about wine? Are you ever in a quandary as to what wine to serve with salad? The acid of the vinaigrette really makes you think.... I had a really nice bottle of Navarro Riesling which I thought could be wonderful with the salad if I did things right.

I opened the bottle and tasted it. Delicious! I poured about a cup of the wine into a saucepan and reduced it until about a tablespoon or so was left. I whisked that into the dressing and served the same wine along with the salad. An absolutely perfect match!

You have to try this salad. Be forewarned... Do it today! The fruits should all be there and available!

FALL HARVEST SALAD

1 cup dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
3 to 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 bunch escarole or frisee, torn into 2 to 3-inch pieces
1 Fuju persimmon, cut into thin slices
1 ripe pear, peeled, cored and thinly sliced
6 figs, halve
25 red and/or green grapes, halved
1 small pomegranate, seeds removed and separated

In a small saucepan over high heat, reduce the wine until 1 to 2 tablespoons remain. Let cool. In a small bowl, whisk together the reduced wine, vinegar and olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Place the escarole or frisee, persimmon slices, pear slices, figs and grapes in a bowl. Add the vinaigrette and gently toss together. Place on individual salad plates and garnish with pomegranate seeds. Serve immediately.

Serves 6

goodbye greece

On the ferry crossing the Saronic Gulf back to the port of Piraeus and Athens, I tried to read but I was anxious. You know that feeling when you're dreaming and you just don't want it to end? I had less than 24 hours left in Greece and the thought made me feel like my heart was in my throat.

When we stepped into the lobby at the Hotel Grande Bretagne, calm settled over me. I felt like I was back home. This is where we'd spent the first night of our honeymoon and here we were again spending the last. A lot had happened and yet so little had taken place.

What a hotel! It ranks right up there with my favorite hotels in the world like La Mamounia in Marrakech, Hotel Monasterio in Cuzco, Peru and The London in New York. We settled into our suite complete with fragrant red roses and an exquisite bottle of red, compliments of the hotel.

We still had a few hours left of the day so we made a mad dash for the Acropolis (last time I was in Athens it was closed) and the New Acropolis Museum. As soon as you enter the museum, you are drawn up towards the monumental glass staircase at the end of the glass floored ramp by really large architectural sculptures of the Hekatompedon, the first large temple of the Goddess Athena on the Acropolis. It took my breath away.

After the museum, we walked and walked through Athens late into the afternoon and early evening, through Plaka, Monastiraki (grabbing the most delicious juicy souvlaki along the way) and Kolonaki ending up back at our hotel in Syntagna Square.

We planned it so we'd have enough time for a late night drink at the GB Roof Garden on the very top of the Hotel Grande Bretagne. This is reason enough to stay here! (The restaurant is excellent too!) The bar is open to the out of doors so the warm breeze of Athens refreshes the evening and the Acropolis lights the night. I'll never forget that night!

The next morning we packed and hurried to the airport for our long flight. What did I bring home from such a fantastic trip? A big bag of Santorini split peas to make their famous dish called fava, a jar of brined caper leaves also from Santorini, some absolutely wonderful memories and lots of love. Thanks for being a part of the journey!

Tales from Hydra Island in Greece

Next stop... The island of Hydra.

If you're planning a trip to Greece, make sure to put it on your itinerary. Only an hour and a half from Athens by hydrafoil but a million dreams away.

This place may very well be Greece's little secret. One moment you feel like you've stepped back in time and the next moment you could think you're in Carmel or the Hamptons.

Joe and I are thanking our good friends, Emmanuel and Tracy, who told us not to miss this place. They come here often staying at the elegant little hotel, Porta del Mare, in a quaint alley just a few short steps from where the ferry drops you in the port.

Petros (photo above) owns Porta del Mare along with a few stores and I'm sure countless other ventures. As soon as we met him, we had an instant friend who gave us the names of the best tavernas, told us not to take the expensive red water taxis, which beaches were best, and pointed us towards his favorite store for fruit and yogurt. You can't miss Petros, look for the red door right on the harbour. It says Peter's over the door. He'll either be inside the store or at the cafe next door.

The port is a hub of activity 27/7 where cafe after cafe rim the edge. People-watching is a favorite pastime and the locals view it as kind of a sport right up there with swimming and hiking the beautiful mountain trails.

Order a coffee at Sinialo or Isalos and sit for hours watching the yachts tie up and the ferries delivering the "three islands-in-a-day" trippers. Just a little FYI, we think the whipped ice coffee at Isalos is miles ahead of anyone else.

But I haven't even mentioned the very best part of Hydra.... There aren't any cars or scooters, only mule. No joke! And those mules come in handy for getting luggage to your hotel over the rough cobblestones or taking you by horseback over the mountain.

The first day when we arrived by ferry, there was a flurry of activity at the port. There weren't enough mules and the scene wasn't that different than fighting for a taxi in NYC.

Did I mention the food yet? The freshest fish is caught in the clean very salty waters off the coast of Hydra. Make sure you order some tarama. If you're lucky, it's made from fresh roe. We had the best stuffed tomatoes and peppers at Barba Dimas Taverna and exquisite grilled octopus and large calamari in the little village of Kaminia at Taverna Kodylenia just over the hill from the port.

It's difficult to imagine a place more picturesque, romantic, and sensuous in the Mediterranean. If Greece (or the Mediterranean) is on your itinerary, be sure to set at least a few days aside for Hydra. And did I mention it is the perfect place to spend your honeymoon?!!